Proteas are often admired in floral arrangements and are purchased for their ability to last several weeks in a vase.
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Because they are related horticulturally to a large group of Australian native plants, including banksias, grevilleas and waratahs, they require similar growing conditions.
Proteas originate from South Africa. They have a low tolerance for artificial fertilizers. Applications of superphosphate will kill proteas. However, they require magnesium, and this can be applied as Epsom salts, scattered over the root areas and then watered in well during spring.
Proteas produce a range of flower styles and colours, on plants that vary from quite small through to large shrubs. Flower colours are predominately shades of pink, although whites, creams and yellows are also available. Flowers are produced from May through to mid-September.
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An application of mulch will benefit plants, although mushroom compost should be avoided as it contains fertilizers high in phosphorous.
It is important to keep the mulch away from the stem as proteas are susceptible to collar rot. Mulching will help to avoid the production of weeds below the plant, as proteas resent having their roots disturbed.
Pruning a protea enables the gardener to shape the plant, and this can initially be done through the cutting of flowers for indoor use. Tip pruning in spring and summer will help establish a good shape in a young plant.
More mature specimens should be pruned immediately after flowering, leaving about 10cm of healthy stem.
This will encourage the plant to produce shoots from above the cut and these will produce flowers in the following season. Leucadendrons and leucospermums should also be pruned in the same manner.
A selection of proteas might include:
"Pink Ice", King protea and Pink mink, all growing to 2 metres, Peach protea and Queen protea, growing about 1.5 metres and Honey protea, which grows to 2.4 metres in height.
CITRUS PROBLEMS
Citrus trees can show deficiencies through unusual colouration patterns on their leaves. Somewhat similar effects can result from deficiencies of both magnesium and zinc.
Magnesium deficiency causes the development of a distinct yellowing towards the apex of older leaves. A triangular area will remain green at the leaf base. The yellowing begins near the edge of the leaves and moves to the pointed end. Older leaves are affected first.
A heavy crop of fruit may also cause the deficiency to become more severe in late summer, with a subsequent shedding of leaves in the autumn. This will leave the tree quite weakened.
Magnesium deficiency is more likely to occur in acidic soils, although trees planted in more alkaline soils may also be affected. A solution made by dissolving 2 teaspoons of Epsom salts in a litre of water can be applied to the soil. However, a quicker result can be obtained by applying it as a foliar spray.
Zinc deficiency, sometimes described as "little leaf", "mottle leaf" or "rosetting" is one of the most damaging and widespread nutritional disorders of citrus trees. In its earlier stage, zinc deficiency will result in lower yields as well as a reduction in tree vigour. Smaller, poor quality fruit may be evident. Small, narrow leaves (little leaf), whitish-yellow areas between the veins (mottle leaf) and leaves crowded along short stems (rosetting) will appear on affected trees. Smaller twigs may die back. The sunnier (northern) side of a tree may display more pronounced symptoms.
A spray that will effectively control both forms of deficiency can be made by dissolving the following in 10 litres of water; 1/2 cup of fish emulsion, 1 cup seaweed concentrate, 3 teaspoons zinc sulphate and 3 teaspoons Epsom salts. However, the solution must be diluted as it would severely burn or maybe even kill young plants if it were to be applied at the original strength.
One part of the liquid added to ten parts of water would be an appropriate dilution rate. It would be preferable to use a weaker, rather than a stronger solution.
The liquid can be sprayed over and under the leaves. It can also be sprayed on most other fruit trees and leafy vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and silver beet.
GOOD FOR COMPOST
Certain weeds are produced annually during winter and should be removed from the garden to reduce their numbers next year. The plant, minus flowers, is then soaked in water for a couple of weeks, resulting in a nutrient-rich solution that is ideal to add to the compost heap.
Another very beneficial plant to add to the compost heap is Comfrey. The leaves can also be used as mulch, as they contain silica, nitrogen, magnesium, calcium, potassium and iron. Adding comfrey leaves to a worm farm will assist in producing larger worms.
Comfrey is a herbaceous perennial. It has large hairy leaves and grows in a rosette to a metre in height.
Although it is dormant in cold areas during winter, it is a hardy plant, with a wide, climatic range. Plants produce high yields in fertile, well-watered soil.
Plants, in the form of root cuttings or crown divisions can be planted out in spring. If the roots are disturbed once the plants have become established, a new plant will be produced. Excess plants can be covered with layers of wet newspaper which is then covered with mulch. The plants underneath will rot away, leaving a rich black compost.
Gardening Tips
- Blueing compound can be added to hydrangea plants if that is the preferred colour at flowering time.
- Sprinkle Epsom Salts on maidenhair ferns and water in well for lush green growth.
- Picking the flowers on camellia plants will encourage denser growth.