Geraldton Wax is one of Australia's most famous wildflowers and is widely used as a cut flower in Australia and overseas.
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The flowers last for well over a week when cut. Chamelaucium (Geraldton Wax) is a genus of about 30 species all occurring naturally only in Western Australia. They are generally medium to large shrubs, reaching 2-3 metres in height, with narrow leaves and 'tea-tree-like' flowers. The leaves are highly aromatic when crushed.
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The flowers appear in late winter and may last through until summer. They are circular in shape and are usually pale to mid pink in colour, although other varieties with colours ranging from white to purple are also available.
If a Geraldton Wax plant is desired for the garden, then it should be chosen while it is in flower. The normal pink-flowered form is more suitable for the local area and is hardier than the deeper purple or white forms.
However, if a position with good drainage in sandy soil is selected, then most varieties will succeed. Plants may be sensitive to frost until they become established. Flowers last well when picked. Plants should be cut back after flowering has finished.
GO FOR BEANS
Beans are a good choice for inclusion in the home vegetable garden as the plants are generally very productive.
Many different varieties are available to suit different growing conditions and preferences. They will grow quickly from seed, particularly if the seed had been soaked in water overnight prior to planting.
Soil that has been enriched with organic compost will be ideal as this will provide the good food source that will be required by the plant for crop production. Adding superphosphate and sulphate of ammonia will provide the extra minerals required for optimum growth. Application should be at quantities suggested on the packaging.
In general, bean seeds should be planted about 4cm deep and 20cm apart if a dwarf variety has been selected.
Taller growing varieties can be planted about 15cm apart. Regular picking of the crop will ensure a long season.
TIME FOR COLOUR
Jonquil and daffodil bulbs are displaying their beautiful flowers, filling the surrounding air with their particular fragrances, as well as heralding the approaching spring.
However, once the flowers from daffodil and jonquil bulbs have died down, it is very tempting to cut back the straggly and untidy leaves that remain. This action should be avoided as this is the time in which the bulb stores energy in order to enable it to produce flowers in the following season. An application of a foliar fertiliser will supply a source of food for the bulbs.
In order to keep the plants looking tidy, the leaves can be twisted around each other, or they can be tied up together. Once the leaves have become yellow or brown they can be cut off at ground level.
Bulbs that are still in flower, or have yet to flower, such as tulips and hyacinths, will respond to light applications of an all purpose fertiliser. An application of fertiliser, as soon as the foliage emerges from the soil, and then as soon as flowering has ceased, will aid in the development of the size of the bulbs. This will result in better and stronger flowers in the following season. This also applies to bulbs that are growing in pots as well as those growing under trees and shrubs.
Although daffodil bulbs prefer cooler growing conditions in order to flower again the following season, under ideal conditions they can be left in the same position for 3 - 5 years. They only require replanting when the clumps of bulbs have become overcrowded.
Lifting of the bulbs should be undertaken in December, while the dying foliage is still attached to the bulb. The bulbs can then be placed into mesh bags and stored in a cool, dry, airy place.
APHID CONTROL
Although aphids are very small members of the animal life that can inhabit a garden, they are capable of much damage and inconvenience.
They will appear as small, shiny rather plump insects that cover new plant growth and flower buds. Their numbers will often be quite extensive. Aphids are starting to appear on the new growth of roses.
Aphids suck out the juices from the new growth of plants, leaving young stems very wilted. They also produce a sweet, sugary substance that creates a film over parts of the plant. This sticky film is the breeding ground for black sooty mould, which also soon makes an appearance on the young plant growth.
By feeding on the young plant stems, aphids can result in the plant stems becoming distorted or failing to open properly. Because of their movement from one plant to another, aphids can be responsible for transferring virus diseases from diseased plants to healthy ones.
When attempting to control and destroy aphids that have invaded the garden, a number of factors need to be considered. For small numbers, they can be squeezed from the plant tips and destroyed. Larger numbers can be removed by spraying the plant with a sharp jet of water.
Aphids have a number of natural predators and the encouraging of these will reduce numbers. Ladybirds, hoverflies and other friendly insects all feed on the aphids. Because of this fact, the use of non or low toxic sprays is preferable. EcoNeem is a very broad-spectrum organic insecticide.
Gardening Tips
- Repot established pot plants with fresh potting mix, removing and diseased or weaker growth.
- Check below the grafts of fruiting and ornamental trees, removing any suckers that have appeared by rubbing with the thumb.
- Pansy plants that have almost finished their flush of flowers can be cut back by half in order to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Maitland and District Garden Club