Gardening: Adding zest to your life

Lemons are generally the most popular choice, although the new Australian finger limes may also be considered.

Different varieties of lemons, oranges, grapefruit and cumquats are available, according to individual needs and growing conditions. For example, ruby grapefruit are particularly useful when making marmalade.

Double-grafted citrus trees, where two different varieties are growing on the one tree, are now available. These include combinations such as: “Washington Navel” orange and “Meyer” lemon; “Washington Navel” orange and “Tahiti” lime; and “Meyer” lemon and “Tahiti” lime.

Double-grafted citrus trees are ideal for many gardens as they require much less space.

Selecting one of the increasing numbers of dwarf citrus varieties is also a good way in which to save space, while still being able to enjoy the freshly-picked fruits.

Dwarf citrus trees are the same as the more traditional bigger growing trees except that the plant material has been grafted on to under stock that will only grow to a metre or two in height.

The lemon variety “Lots a lemon” is an example of this and will grow very successfully in a pot on a balcony or in a courtyard, provided the plant receives several hours of sunlight each day.

Cumquat varieties also make good tub specimens.

A good quality potting mix should be used when planting citrus trees into pots.

Citrus trees are usually purchased in tubs or pots, making transplantation relatively easy.

A position with good drainage is essential. Soil that has a heavy clay base and drains slowly may require plants to be grown in large pots or to have a raised bed constructed.

Well-rotted manures and compost should be dug into the soil prior to planting time.

The hole that is dug for the new tree should be large enough for the new rootball to fit into it comfortably. It is important that the hole is not so large that the trunk of the plant will be below the soil of surface of the surrounding soil.

The original soil surface in the pot should still be visible after planting. This may require some adjustment of the depth by adding soil to the bottom of the hole. If a plant is placed below the surface of the soil it will soon be subject to collar rot of the main trunk.

Once the tree has been placed in the soil, the soil should be well watered with a seaweed solution.

A layer of organic mulch can then be placed over the new soil, keeping it  away from the trunk of the tree.

Cymbidium orchids will soon be showing the early stages of flowering spikes, if conditions have been favourable for the production of these spikes.

Flower spikes will appear from near the base of the leaves. At first they might be mistaken for new leaves, but it will soon become evident that they are flower spikes as they begin to thicken and change in appearance.

The flower spikes will become quite heavy as they develop and so it is advisable to insert thin stakes as supports while the spikes are new. The stakes can be pushed down into the pots.

Snails are one of the main problems with orchid spikes as they will chew away at the young, developing buds, ruining their development. Preventative measures should be taken before the damage is done. Remember to take great care if using snail baits as they can poison pets and native animals. The baits can be placed under covers so that the snails can access the baits, while animals are prevented from doing so.

Plants that have developing spikes can be safely moved out of the shady areas and placed into a position of full sun. The plants can remain there until spring.

Once the flower buds begin to reveal their flowers, the pots can be moved indoors for short periods so that the flowers can be enjoyed. Placing the pots outdoors for a day or two will help the plants from suffering from the indoor atmosphere.

Another way to enjoy the flowers indoors is to cut the spike from the plant and place it into a vase. The smaller buds will continue to develop until all have opened.

Lawns will benefit from being aerated as this will allow moisture and nutrients to reach the root system of the lawn.

Aeration can be achieved by spiking the surface through the use of a garden fork or tools that have been specifically designed for this purpose.

A final application of a general purpose lawn food before the colder weather of winter sets in will be beneficial.

Some lawns may have areas of broadleaf weeds in them. These plants cover areas of the soil, killing off the surrounding lawn. Winter broadleaf weeds might include white clover, capeweed, dock and dandelion. Capeweed produces yellow, daisy-like flowers and serrated leaves.

The weeds may be dug out, provided that the whole plant, including the long root system, is dug out. Sulphate of ammonia, sprinkled onto the plant, will generally kill the weed. Lawn foods containing sulphate of ammonia may be used, or weed killers that have been specially develop for the control of the weeds, will also help to control the weeds.

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