Rose bushes will soon need their annual pruning, so now is an ideal time in which to ensure the secateurs, saws and other tools that will be used are in good working order.
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Cleaning, sharpening and oiling are all tasks that can be undertaken.
Pruning and trimming can leave residues of sap, gum and dried plant tissue on the blades. Some tools can be taken apart so that cleaning can be more thorough.
After the cleaning and sharpening has been completed, the blades should be sprayed with, or dipped into disinfectant. This is essential if the gardener wants to avoid spreading disease from one plant to another.
The most recognised time to prune roses is mid to late winter, depending on weather conditions and location.
The beginning of July is often regarded as being suitable for rose pruning, unless heavy frosts are experienced later in the season. A dry season will often result in a wonderful show in spring. However, this will also depend on how much mulch and care have been given to roses over the last season.
If hybrid tea roses are pruned lightly through summer and autumn, particularly when cutting the flowers to enjoy the blooms indoors, they will flower much better. Prune dead flower heads back to three to four buds from the flower. This will encourage a new flush of flowers within six weeks.
Many rose growers like to spray their plants with lime sulphur after they have been pruned, and while they are leafless, in an effort to kill off any scale and other insects that sometimes live in and around the bark of the bushes. Larger stems that have been cut or sawed can also be painted with an acrylic paint in order to prevent diseases entering the cut surfaces.
Fortunately, whatever expertise you have with the pruning of roses, the bushes are very forgiving and will survive even the worst prune. The best ways to learn are; discuss methods with a more experienced gardener, have a go yourself or go to one of the rose pruning demonstrations that are sometimes given at a local nursery.
GROW ONIONS
Onions will be ready for harvesting between 6 and 8 months from sowing seeds. However, seedlings planted out would be ready much sooner. Seeds should be sown in seed trays, with seedlings being ready to plant out in 4-6 weeks. This will give the young plants sufficient time to develop some strength.
Young onion plants look like blades of grass, although they sometimes retain the outer covering of the seed for some time at the tip of the plant. Seedlings should be placed between 5 and 10cm apart when they are planted out into the garden.
Onions are available in a range of colours, with strength and use relating to the colour. Brown onions have a strong flavour and are quite pungent. They generally keep well under the appropriate storage conditions. Brown onions roasted whole with other vegetables are delicious.
White onions are flavoursome, but milder than brown onions. They also keep reasonably well.
Milder flavours and strength, such as that preferred in salads or on sandwiches will be obtained from red onions. Red onions also add colour to the salads or a stir-fry.
Onions prefer soil that is fertile and slightly acidic. The addition of dolomite to the soil prior to plant will help to achieve this.
When selecting onion seedlings for planting out, it is preferable to choose smaller plants as they will be less likely to bolt to seed in November, resulting in the loss of the crop.
The preferred method for planting out seedlings of onions varies from the usual practice. Seedlings should first be laid flat in a groove or trench. Then the soil is moved to barely cover the roots. The plants do not have to be positioned in the soil so that they are sticking straight up. Within a week to 10 days the young plants will have straightened themselves up and the bulbs will develop just below the soil’s surface. This will result in stronger bulbs.
Weeds that develop around onion seedlings should be removed by hand in order to avoid disturbing the roost and bulbs of the plants. Liquid fertilisers that have a high nitrogen base should be avoided as they will only encourage the plants to produce leaves, rather than develop good bulbs.
Regular watering will ensure good growth as well as assist in the prevention of the bulbs splitting.
Onions will be ready to harvest when the tops start to dry off and fall over. Once onions have matured and have been harvested they should be allowed to dry before storing in a cool, airy place. Storing in a net bag is ideal, or, alternatively, the tops can be woven together to form a string, which can then be used to suspend the onions.
![REAP THE REWARDS: Some careful maintenance of your roses now should help ensure a colourful reward in a few months. REAP THE REWARDS: Some careful maintenance of your roses now should help ensure a colourful reward in a few months.](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/Q9r3V9AUcqpAGD3DNsaA9W/3af14c0c-4f3e-4770-b20c-251bc5031659.jpg/r0_214_2992_2003_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
CITRUS TIPS
In addition to lemons, oranges are probably the most popular citrus in the home garden.
Washington navels are seedless fruits that require less heat in order to produce fruit that ripens between May and June, with a good flavour. Navel-type oranges require consistent watering in September and October if a good set of fruit is to result.
Valencia oranges are nearly seedless and very juicy. Fruit may take between 12 and 14 months to ripen.
CLUB MEETING
Maitland and District Garden Club monthly meeting will be held on Saturday afternoon, 25 th June, at 2pm. It will focus on bonsai. Members will visit a home bonsai collection to see a wide variety of plants and learn some of the techniques used. For further details, contact 49333703.