Two main types are grown – curly leaf (traditional) and flat leaf (Italian).

Young plants are available in pots or seedling trays, but plants can also be grown from seed. However, parsley seeds can be difficult to raise as seedlings. Parsley seeds are slow to germinate and usually require soaking prior to germination taking place. This can be achieved by soaking the seeds in warm water overnight.

Alternatively, the seeds can be sown thickly, directly into a seed raising mixture on top of the garden bed. Then water that had just boiled can be poured over the soil and seeds.

Using either method, the young seedlings should emerge in about three weeks. Young plants can be thinned out if needed. In about two months from sowing the seeds the gardener will be able to enjoy fresh parsley in their preferred culinary methods.

Citrus trees can show deficiencies through unusual colouration patterns on their leaves. Somewhat similar effects can result from deficiencies of both magnesium and zinc.

Magnesium deficiency causes the development of a distinct yellowing towards the apex of older leaves. A triangular area will remain green at the leaf base. The yellowing begins near the edge of the leaves and moves to the pointed end. Older leaves are affected first. 

A heavy crop of fruit may also cause the deficiency to become  more severe in late summer, with a subsequent shedding of leaves in the autumn. This will leave the tree quite weakened. Magnesium deficiency is more likely to occur in acidic soils, although trees planted in more alkaline soils may also be affected. A solution made by dissolving 2 teaspoons of Epsom salts in a litre of water can be applied to the soil. However, a quicker result can be obtained by applying it as a foliar spray.

Zinc deficiency, sometimes described as “little leaf”, “mottle leaf” or “rosetting” is one of the most damaging and widespread nutritional disorders of citrus trees. In its earlier stage, zinc deficiency will result in lower yields as well as a reduction in tree vigour. Smaller, poor quality fruit may be evident. Small, narrow leaves (little leaf), whitish-yellow areas between the veins (mottle leaf) and leaves crowded along short stems (rosetting) will appear on affected trees. Smaller twigs may die back. The sunnier (northern) side of a tree may display more pronounced symptoms.

A spray that will effectively control both forms of deficiency can be made by dissolving the following in 10 litres of water; ½ cup of fish emulsion, 1 cup seaweed concentrate, 3 teaspoons zinc sulphate and 3 teaspoons Epsom salts. However, it is imperative that the resultant solution is diluted. It would severely burn or maybe even kill young plants if it were to be applied at the original strength.

One part of the liquid added to ten parts of water would be an appropriate dilution rate. It would be preferable to use a weaker, rather than a stronger solution. The liquid can be sprayed over and under the leaves. It is also suitable to use on most other fruit trees, as well as leafy vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and silver beet.

Bindiis, the small, ferny green patches that appear in lawns, cause great inconvenience during summer months.

Various methods of treatment are available, and the winter months are the ideal time for these to be carried out, before the sharp seeds have formed.

Lawns that are cut low will encourage the formation of bindiis, while leaving the mower blades at a higher setting will encourage the grass plants to grow and choke out the bindiis. If the area of bindiis is not too large, then digging out the plants by hand will be the most successful.

Sprays can be applied to help eradicate the plants. While commercially available chemicals can be used, an environmentally friendly solution can be made by dissolving two tablespoons of iron sulphate in 4 ½ litres of water. Avoid spraying when rain is imminent.

Two flowering bulbs that are often confused and misnamed are snowdrops and snowflakes. These plants grow very well under other shrubs, such as magnolias and camellias, where they contribute very well to the winter scene.

The flowers first appear in the early winter months, producing their white flower heads that hang gracefully from their stems and move gently in any breeze.

Small green markings on the edges of the petals distinguish snowflakes and add to their appeal. They are the more commonly available of the two varieties of bulbs but are a most worthwhile addition to the winter garden.

They are more suitable to warmer areas than snowdrops which prefer colder areas.

Snowdrops have dainty white bell-shaped flowers, with three more prominent outer petals that cover inner petals that also have a green edge.

Their long, strappy green foliage is also quite attractive. Snowdrops / snowflakes are very hardy plants and will generally reappear each year in late autumn; especially if they have been planted in a cooler section of the garden.